With the Holidays approaching many families will be getting WiFi connected doorbells, security cameras and voice activated products. If you have trouble connecting any of these products to your WiFi network, or need a WiFi network installed, Brookside computer can help. Click the link to see our service area, or email info@brooksidecomputer.com for additional information.
Cable Internet Speed (or how 200 became 2.0 and back again)
Recently, my cable internet speed was noticeably slowing . I didn't have any idea what the speed should be so I checked my cable account and discovered that I was paying for 200 Mbps download and 10 Mbps upload. I went to www.speedtest.net to check the current download and upload speed. The test confirmed my fears. I had a download speed of 2.1 Mbps and an upload speed of 2.2 Mbps. I did all the usual things (unplug and re-plug in the modem and router) to see if I could increase the speed. Nothing worked. I was still stuck in the single digits for up and download speeds. I contacted the cable company through the online chat app. I chatted with one tech/agent and as soon as he (based on agent's chat name) found out I had already done just about everything in his prepared script, he transferred me to a higher level tech/agent . this tech/agent (also male sounding chat name) sent me to the cable company's speed test link and I ran the test again with the same results. I copied a link in to the chat window so the tech/agent could see the results. Long story short. I had to directly connect the computer to the cable modem (bypassing the router.) the tech/agent did whatever he could on his end and another speed test was performed. The result was much better (115 Mbps download and 8 Mbps upload), but still not the speed listed on my account. The tech/agent informed me that according to their records my cable modem and router were at their end of life based on upgrades to the internet service. He sent me a link to see what cable modems were now recommended. Talk about planned obsolescence. The cable modem and router were only 6 to 8 years old. I would have never thought about replacing them, but I took his advice and purchased a new cable modem and router. It was worth it. The result of the speed test I just ran 10 minutes ago was 240 Mbps download and 12 Mbps upload (I realize these are just estimates and your mileage may vary), but it sure beats the heck out of what I was getting last week.
If your cable modem and/or router is over 4 years old, I suggest:
- Check your internet service provider(ISP) account to see what speed you're paying for
- Check your current internet speeds at www.speedtest.net.
- Determine if you would benefit from purchasing new equipment
If you are renting your equipment from your ISP (Cable company or DSL Provider), I suggest you contact them for an equipment upgrade. If you own your own equipment or want to discontinue renting the equipment and you live within Brookside Computer's area of coverage (see About Page), I am available to help you decide what equipment meets your needs and provide installation (including security setup and WiFi connection of laptops, tablets, phones and streaming devices [Chromecast, Roku, Apple TV or Amazon Fire TV].)
2 Recent Repairs
First Repair
I like to have my desktop computers start up as soon as I turn on the power strip. That's why I rarely use the power button to turn a desktop computer on. This was not the case of a HP desktop I recently worked on. The customer indicated that the computer would not start when the power button was pushed. I took the computer to my shop and plugged it in. I saw a green light on the back of the power supply, which made me think that there must be something wrong with the power switch itself. I took off the front of the computer and tried to turn it on by pushing the actual inside switch. This did not work. Next I opened the case and attempted to use a screw driver to short the power switch pins on the motherboard. The computer would not start. Yet the green light on the power supply glowed brightly. To say the least I was puzzled. I decided to take the motherboard out of the case and put it on my test bench. I hooked up the test bench power supply, shorted the power switch pins and the computer turned on. The customer bought a new power supply. I installed it and everything worked out. Since the CPU is an early i3 processor with minimal RAM. I did recommend the customer think about a new computer. I was able to convince the customer that upgrading the mechanical hard drive to a solid state drive SSD) would increase performance. Also the SSD would be a good investment , because I can transfer it to the new computer when they decide to upgrade their system.
Second Repair
This repair was not a money making proposition because it was one of my own desktop computers that needed the repair. It had been quite a while since I personally had an Intel based computer. I finally decided to make my own i7 computer with a Gigabyte Z170 motherboard in October of 2015. About two months ago, I began having a problem with the computer as I would randomly shut down and it would be hard to restart. Finally it shut down and would not restart at all. The CPU fan would start to spin when I turned the power on but it would not boot and after a few second it just shut down. Because most repairs end up being a process of elimination, my first thought was that there was a problem with the video card so I switch to the motherboard video connection. This did not resolve the issue. My next thought was to see if there was a problem with the RAM. I tried taking one stick out and switching the memory socket. this did not solve the problem. I finally decided to switch the RAM into the previously empty memory sockets (the motherboard has 4 sockets.). I pushed the power button and the computer booted up normally after the (Windows did not shut down properly) message. So it appeared that the memory sockets on the motherboard was the problem. I checked the Gigabyte web site and discovered that my motherboard is still under warranty. I had to disconnect everything and ruin some of my cable management to get the motherboard out of the computer I got a return authorization, shipped the board for repair and the board came back within 2 weeks of the original return. Because I want to make this computer my dedicated photo editing computer, I took this opportunity to upgrade the RAM from 16 to 32 gigabytes.
If you're having problems with your computer I can help you get it running again or suggest alternative cost effective solutions.
It Took a Long Time for PCs to be Truly Upgradeable
One of the reasons I began building my own PCs was the(what I soon found out to be) the false promise of upgradeability. Whether it was Intel or AMD based, each new generation of CPU usually required at a minimum a new motherboard. Then there was the RAM. Even today, we have seen RAM go from DDR to DDR4 in a relatively short time. The same can be said for the Graphics Processing Unit (GPU), which I will just refer to as the video card. From VGA to PCI-e the video card standards changed so often. Bringing a new meaning to planned obsolescence. I would gladly spend my hard earned dollars for that fractional increase in processing speed. Well that was then and this is now. Guess what I haven’t changed. I’m still willing to pay for the fastest processor and graphics. Except, now I can actually upgrade my PC. The time between significant changes to CPUs and GPUs is getting longer and longer. As long as the CPU socket (basically being able to reuse the motherboard) remains the same, an Intel or AMD CPU can be upgraded. The same can be said of the GPU and to a lesser extent RAM. Oh I still got sucked into the Intel Skylake hype and had to buy everything (except for the video card that could have been reused) new.
Whether you are interested in upgrading your current PC or thinking about a brand new state-of- the-art PC, contact Brookside Computer. We are your upgrade and custom PC resource.
To XP or not To XP
As everyone should know by now, Microsoft no longer provides updates and support for Windows XP. Should a PC that can't be upgraded to Windows 7 or 10 (no since even thinking about 8 at this point) be sent to the recycling center on hazardous waste day? If the PC still works, I say no. As long as the PC is not connected to the Internet, the lack of updates will not affect how the PC performs because unlike the our Cold and Flu season viruses cannot attack a PC through thin air. I have 3 PCs running XP. The main reason is that I also have old peripherals (printers, scanners etc.) that work perfectly, but the manufacturers decided not to update the drivers in order to be compatible with Windows 7. There is also one game (called Road Rash) that came out during the Windows 95 or 98 era. It was and still is the only racing game that I can play without crashing every two seconds. That alone is reason enough to keep my XP PCs. Before you say anything, yes I tried compatibility mode in the more recent versions of Windows with no success. In conclusion, go ahead and play those old games, write your epic novel, or keep track of your personal finances with a Windows XP PC. JUST DON"T GO ONLINE!
What do you Want to do With your PC
When I was looking to purchase my first PC, that was the question I hated hearing from the salesperson. I really had no idea. I had recently completed a one day training called "Introduction to Personal Computers" for work, and I finally understood what I needed to do to make one of these Things work. I'm much older, but probably not much wiser now. As someone that builds custom PCs, the question of "what do you want to do with the PC" is very important. Will the PC be used to play games? Edit Video? Check email and Skype with friends and family? Use the PC as a Network Attached Storage (NAS) device? Once you answer that question, I will be able to make suggestions for components that will best your needs. If you know what you want, Brookside Computer will build the best price to performance PC.
SSD is not a disease. It is a Cure
Besides the usual suspects (fast CPU, Memory and Graphics card) switching from a mechanical hard drive to a Solid State Drive (SSD) will help any Windows PC or laptop startup and run faster. Prices for SSDs have dropped dramatically. A moderately fast256 GB SSD (which is still much faster than most if not all mechanical hard drives) costs less than $100.00 at major office supplyand big box electronics stores. Lower prices can be found when online merchants have sales. A 256 GB SSD is perfect for operating system installation in a desktop PC. A larger 2 to 3 TBmechanical hard drive may also be installed for additional program and file storage. While you may currently have a 2 TB hard drive, if you are only using 350GB, I would suggest purchasing a 500 GB SSD and keep the 2 TB as additional storage. Laptops are a bit different since they usually only have 1 storage drive. I would suggest you get a SSD of equal or larger capacity. Install it. and clone the hard drive to the SSD. You will be able to buy an enclosure and use the hard drive for external portable storage. If you live inNorthwest New Jersey or eastern Pennsylvania, Brookside Computer can assist you in finding, installing, and transferring data to the new SSD.
Spring Cleaning
Has your PC been overheating or running slower than normal. If you have already optimized the hard drive, there is one more operation you may also want to perform. This will require opening the case, so if you are uncomfortable doing that you should enlist the services of a qualified technician (like me). Most desktop PCs have multiple fans bringing in fresh air and exhausting the hot air in an effort to maintain the performance of the components. However unless your PC is located in a NASA clean room, dust, pet hair and other particles will find a way into the case and decrease the PC's cooling efficiency. The best way to remove this dusty build up is with an electric leaf blower (it is recommended that this is done outside in a well ventilated area for obvious reasons.). Most if not all the dust will be removed. Any remaining particles can be wiped off with a cloth or Q-tip (for the difficult to reach places.) I perform this service on every PC I diagnose, repair, or upgrade.
Where's your Power Supply
Most newer computer cases locate the Power Supply Unit (PSU) on the bottom of the case. However, when I started building PCs the PSU was usually located at the top of the case. This caused a problem the first time I used a case with the PSU on the bottom of the case. I liked to place the computer on the floor, which is carpeted. I learn the hard way that a case with a PSU on the bottom should never be placed on carpet. Why? I'm glad you asked. Newer PSUs have a fan at the bottom, which draws in air across the PSU components and exhausts the air out the back. That is why cases have a dust filter where the PSU fan draws in air. This type of PSU on carpet acts like a vacuum cleaner filling the dust filter in no time at all, which results in an overheated PSU. Luckily, most newer PSU have overheating protection. It was just strange to have the computer shutdown at what I thought were random times. Since I wasn't going to rip out the carpeting, the simple solution was to put thin wooden boards under the case. Problem solved and the cost was minimal.